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hornplayer.net Information archive
Giardinelli Mouthpieces
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Regarding the Giardinelli C1 thread:
The lower the wire gauge number in the mouthpiece designation, the less
resistance in the mouthpiece. The C1 has the least resistance in the C-Series
of mouthpieces. The Chambers Model, up to the C10, is a deep cup. Generally,
the rest of the C-series are shallower cups, though with a similar inner
contour. The reason the C12 and C15 are shallower is because the proportion of
bore size to cup depth ought to be kept "reasonable". A very large bore, as
the #1, has even less resistance in a medium or shallow cup, plus the
resulting tone of that combination is coarse and airy.
In my mouthpiece-crafting experience, persons with a naturally hard and potent
buzz tend to benefit from the larger-dimensioned mouthpieces like the C1, as
this cup smooths the tone. Conversely, players with a rather soft buzz (of
course this buzz ought to be strengthened by practice...) can benefit from the
shallower cup & smaller bore, as it helps concentrate the sound & reinforce
the higher partials. A deep cup, coupled with a smaller bore (say, like the
old King H2) tends to produce a dark and covered tone on most horns, though
again this depends on the resistance of the horn, too. Using a famous player's
mouthpiece MAY be a good thing, but in most ways it is like trying to wear
somebody else's clothes. Better to get your own size!
Which brings me the the rim of the Chambers. Most of the rims which were cut
onto the C-mouthpieces have been the reverse-peak type. Maybe Chambers used
this arrangement, maybe not. In any case, the rim on the C-Series is narrow,
which will suit SOME but not all. It has an outside edge that gives the rim a
very distinct feeling, unlike a standard curved contour.
It is always better to start out with a screw-rim setup so that the feel of
the new mouthpiece in the horn is not confused by adding an alien rim to the
mix. Whenever I get a call for a custom mouthpiece I ask the player what
he/she has been playing up to that point, and advise them to keep the same rim
if they are happy with it. Chances are I have a pattern for their long-time
favorite, and I can certainly make small changes to enhance the existing rim
for better comfort & control.
Factory-made mouthpieces can be very good indeed, if you don't need custom
work and don't have a lot of bucks. I have a copy here of the latest Conn 7BW,
which came with a new 8D. The finish is extremely fine and the rim looks well-
defined and very comfortable. It was apparently made on a computer-numeric-
controlled lathe (CNC). Holton also makes their mouthpieces on CNC lathes, so
dimensional control is nearly absolute. The Holtons are inexpensive as well.
Hope this rather long post is helpful. I have a small brochure available
(free) on trying out a new mouthpiece.
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When my students ask me about mouthpieces, I tell them that mouthpieces are
like sneakers--they have to fit you. What you find comfortable in a sneaker,
I probably would not. A mouthpiece has to fit the player, his mouth, lips,
and playing needs.
Just because someone else finds that a Shilke TripleXXX, Laserlight, fuel
injected, quadraphonic model allows him to jump through musical hoops with
panache, doesn't mean that mouthpiece will work equally well for you. Perhaps
a generic Joe-Blow model will allow you to sound like Dennis Brain. So what
Phil Myers or any other player uses should not enter into your consideration
about which mouthpiece to select.
As well, you may have lips which require an extra thick or extra thin rim. You
may find that a shallow cup doesn't work as well as a deep cup or vise versa.
If you're playing on a shallow cup and finding that playing loud, especially
in the high range, is a struggle, you may find that a deep-cup version of the
same model will correct the problem.
Just remember, you can play on the same equipment as someone else and not have
the same result. You may have the same ability, but your equipment needs may
be different. Above all, never play on a mouthpiece which makes your lips
sore or swell. A new mouthpiece should not take much time to get use to if it
really fits you.
So, if someone suggests a particular mouthpiece is the best mouthpiece, that
mouthpiece is probably the best mouthpiece for that player but might not serve
your technical or musical needs. You just have to try a variety of
mouthpieces from thick to thin rims, deep to shallow cups, small to large
bores. Keep in mind, if you find a particular rim you like, but the cup and
bores don't suit you, you can always have a custom mouthpiece made combining
all the positive elements of the various mouthpieces you liked.
Cindy Lewis
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I recently purchased a Giardinelli mothpiece size, C1. It is pretty
big. I've never seen a French horn mouthpiece this big. I t takes a ton
of air to play with this mouthpiece. Is it a good decison to play on it
or will it have no benefit.
Brad Byrum
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I would assume it is good to at least practice on. If it takes so much
that you can't really play much on it, maybe you should go for a little
smaller mouthpiece. I played on my teacher's mouthpiece(a Stork M1) and my
sound was a great improvement from my last mouthpiece. However, in order
to get a sound out of the thing, I was breathing practically every
bar(this was back in my freshman year in college). He put me on a M8,
which was hard enough at first, but I am assuming I will be moving to a M4
or something pretty soon (and get back to the"I can barely get enough
air!" stage again...). The more air it takes, generally you will have a
better sound, but you will sacrifice some ease on moving around on the
instrument if you move too fast. If it is substantially larger than your
last one, you might want to go with something smaller.
Linnea
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I was told that the mouthpiece, the lower the number
you go, the more air it takes, but the better sound you will have.
I guess someone has to say it, so I guess it might as well be me. If you
play a c-1 or other large mouthpiece, it is likely that you will have
trouble playing high with ease, you will be flat above the staff, and you
will have a sound that, at a distance, will be covered, stuffy and dull
sounding. You will sound very mellow to yourself, which is a sure sign
that your far-away sound will be less than satisfactory. Just my
opinion...your mileage my vary.
Bob
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I will look that up... although it is extreamly difficult for me to get
mouthpieces other than Benge coming from my area. That is all these stores
sell. I am very used to the "I can barely get enough air!" part though. I
switched from the trumpet and that was very scary. It was embarrasing having
the conductor standing over me yelling... but I am always up for the
challegne. I have already learned the differance of the amount of air on an
instrument like the french horn. May I ask... how much does a Stork usually
run??
Leah Morgan Durrett
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Does anyone know the URL to Stork Mouthpieces????
Leah Morgan Durrett
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Ready for this?
http://plainfield.bypass.com/~stork/index.html
Rick
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I have a C4 and a C8. I played the 4 for about 5 years and got the C8.
I used the C8 for 4 years or so and then ended up not playing for 6
years or so. After starting playing again I used the C8 and have now
gone back (full circle?) to the C4. The bigger C4 does take a lot more
air but the sound is more what I am looking for.
And since someone brought it up...has anyone out there had experience
with both Giradinelli and Stork mouthpieces? In particular what I'm
interested in are the differences you noticed in rim width (good and or
bad in terms of how it affected your playing). Also, what about
differences between the "C," Meyers and Orval models? Thanks.
Jack Martin
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Dear Jack:
Osmun carries Stork as well as other fine m-p's. Gold plating is
about $25 extra. They could advise. Just type "osmun" in Netscape on
the "Location" or "Go to" or "Netsite" line. They are especially
knowledgeable about converting from trumpet and other bastardly devices.
Ben
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It was embarrasing having
the conductor standing over me yelling... May I ask... how much does a Stork usually
run??
Hiya,
The best defense when a conductor is standing up yelling at you is to
look at them like 'you are a total idiot.' You'll be communicating the
truth more often than they will.
scottito
PS; The answer to your question - it depends on what is chasing it...
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I recently purchased a Giardinelli C1 as well as a C15 (just to test it out).
I had problems in my low range and the C1 did help. At first, I couldn't
achieve the high end as well and used the C15 but after a while, I was doing
as well on the C1. I now just use the C15 when I am tired.
Maybe not the best practice, but it works for me!
Hallie
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| When I grew up in Cleveland, my first horn teacher told me to buy a C-1.
When I started to study with Richard Solis, he recommended that I switch to
a C-12 (I resisted). During college, I eventually played an MY15. In my
first second horn job, the principal horn requested that I go back to a C-1
which I played until the middle of my first season as principal horn with
the Israel Sinfonietta. i found that I was "gripping" far too much in the
upper register. I switched to a B-8 which enabled me to get the benefit of
a deep cup, but the ease of a slightly smaller bore. The moral of the
story is that there is no simple answer and that one needs to find the
equipment which works for oneself!
John Schreckengost |
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Dear Friends:
In all the recent discussion of Giardinelli mouthpiece cup depths & bore
sizes, I didn't hear anything about rim shape.
Doesn't anybody besides me find the Giardinelli rim uncomfortable &
tiring? It's not that the Giardinelli rim is too narrow, just that it
has a reverse-peak contour that really digs in. (Maybe this relates to
the "pressure" discussion from a few weeks back.)
Aren't the mass-produced mouthpieces like Holton Farkas, Holton
Tuckwell, & Conn Connstellation lots more comfortable where the metal
meets the lipflesh?
Alan Cole
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I find the "bite" - the inner edge of the mouthpiece - on Giardinelli
mouthpieces to sharp, and it bruises my oh-so-tender lips. The nice thing
about Stork is that they offer a rounded bite version.
I just ordered a Stork from the Osmun site (http://www.osmun.com) and the
rounded-bite Stork is annotated as "W"
I am biased - being the Osmun site designer - but Bob Osmun's price is hard to
beat. $44 US for a one piece silver plated Stork that regulary goes for $60.
Bruce
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The more air it takes, generally you will have a
better sound,
What sort of studies have been reported that would document this statement as
true? It does not match my experience at all. (57 years playing the horn)
Mansur's Answer
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Well, I don't know what kind of studies have been done, but this is
actually not from me, but from a VERY well-known teacher. You know that
principal horn in the NY Phil? He taught him too. And you are taking
this out of context-I was told that the mouthpiece, the lower the number
you go, the more air it takes, but the better sound you will have.
Linnea M Proverbs
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Yes, I knew Mr. Chambers, and I think he would agree with me. Jimmy would
advocate a larger bore size -- IF the player's lips, style of playing, horn,
et al would work with a larger bore size. If not, then he would work toward a
smaller size to find the ideal mouthpiece for THAT player. He never believed
that ONE SIZE FITS ALL. I know some of his students that play on 8 bores and
smaller. The large bore mpces can make some person's sound worse to the
point of tubby, flabby, and far out of tune. That is not better, just because
it takes more air. The real solution is HOW the air is handled and what sort
of buzz produces what sort of tone.
I suspect part of this thread is a manifestation of the fixation that American
Horn players are being accused of in Europe -- of being maniacal about volume
and the "Big Tone" -- whatever that is. Some one is being misled badly to
think that an Alto Horn can be made to have the same sound as a Horn, which is
double the length of tubing found in the F Alto Horn.
In short, I do not believe Loud and Beauty are synonyms; nor are Big and
Better. Sometimes, less IS more!
Mansur's Answers
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It was not referring to Chambers, and I am not going any further about
telling you who it is. I truly believe that the lower the number, you
not necessarily will get a better sound, but eventually you will. These
are my own words. I don't exactly have huge lips and I can get a better
sound on the these mouthpieces. I don't think you should jump from a
small mouthpiece right into a big one, but I do think that they are
capable of producing a better sound(not bigger, I said better). And once
again, these are my words now, no one else's.
Linnea
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I am currently playing on a Stork M8 and moved to it from a terrible
mouthpiece. I haven't played on a whole lot of mouthpieces, but I do feel
that the lower the number, the best results, at least for me so far. If I
am wrong, I apologize, but that has been my experience so far.
Linnea
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If I
am wrong, I apologize, but that has been my experience so far.
How can you be "wrong" about your own experience? -AC.
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Well, I don't know what kind of studies have been done, but this is
actually not from me, but from a VERY well-known teacher. You know that
principal horn in the NY Phil? He taught him too. And you are taking
this out of context-I was told that the mouthpiece, the lower the number
you go, the more air it takes, but the better sound you will have.
I have a problem with the statement, "the lower the number you go, the more
air it takes, but the better sound you will have." Phil Myers said this or
your teacher?
I would bet my Master's degree that Mr. Myers' intent is misstated: The
inference that a bigger mouthpiece equals a "better sound". I cannot
believe he would say that (as gospel) to a student. Just read his Stork
article.
Bob Marlatt
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It was not Phil Myers words. I would rather not drag this out. It was my
teacher's words which could have just been pertaining to me.
Linnea M Proverbs
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I hope you copy our responses and show them to your teacher.
Bob Marlatt
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