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Giardinelli Mouthpieces

Regarding the Giardinelli C1 thread:

The lower the wire gauge number in the mouthpiece designation, the less resistance in the mouthpiece. The C1 has the least resistance in the C-Series of mouthpieces. The Chambers Model, up to the C10, is a deep cup. Generally, the rest of the C-series are shallower cups, though with a similar inner contour. The reason the C12 and C15 are shallower is because the proportion of bore size to cup depth ought to be kept "reasonable". A very large bore, as the #1, has even less resistance in a medium or shallow cup, plus the resulting tone of that combination is coarse and airy.

In my mouthpiece-crafting experience, persons with a naturally hard and potent buzz tend to benefit from the larger-dimensioned mouthpieces like the C1, as this cup smooths the tone. Conversely, players with a rather soft buzz (of course this buzz ought to be strengthened by practice...) can benefit from the shallower cup & smaller bore, as it helps concentrate the sound & reinforce the higher partials. A deep cup, coupled with a smaller bore (say, like the old King H2) tends to produce a dark and covered tone on most horns, though again this depends on the resistance of the horn, too. Using a famous player's mouthpiece MAY be a good thing, but in most ways it is like trying to wear somebody else's clothes. Better to get your own size!

Which brings me the the rim of the Chambers. Most of the rims which were cut onto the C-mouthpieces have been the reverse-peak type. Maybe Chambers used this arrangement, maybe not. In any case, the rim on the C-Series is narrow, which will suit SOME but not all. It has an outside edge that gives the rim a very distinct feeling, unlike a standard curved contour.

It is always better to start out with a screw-rim setup so that the feel of the new mouthpiece in the horn is not confused by adding an alien rim to the mix. Whenever I get a call for a custom mouthpiece I ask the player what he/she has been playing up to that point, and advise them to keep the same rim if they are happy with it. Chances are I have a pattern for their long-time favorite, and I can certainly make small changes to enhance the existing rim for better comfort & control.

Factory-made mouthpieces can be very good indeed, if you don't need custom work and don't have a lot of bucks. I have a copy here of the latest Conn 7BW, which came with a new 8D. The finish is extremely fine and the rim looks well- defined and very comfortable. It was apparently made on a computer-numeric- controlled lathe (CNC). Holton also makes their mouthpieces on CNC lathes, so dimensional control is nearly absolute. The Holtons are inexpensive as well. Hope this rather long post is helpful. I have a small brochure available (free) on trying out a new mouthpiece.

Best Wishes from Tom of MooseWood
When my students ask me about mouthpieces, I tell them that mouthpieces are like sneakers--they have to fit you. What you find comfortable in a sneaker, I probably would not. A mouthpiece has to fit the player, his mouth, lips, and playing needs.

Just because someone else finds that a Shilke TripleXXX, Laserlight, fuel injected, quadraphonic model allows him to jump through musical hoops with panache, doesn't mean that mouthpiece will work equally well for you. Perhaps a generic Joe-Blow model will allow you to sound like Dennis Brain. So what Phil Myers or any other player uses should not enter into your consideration about which mouthpiece to select.

As well, you may have lips which require an extra thick or extra thin rim. You may find that a shallow cup doesn't work as well as a deep cup or vise versa. If you're playing on a shallow cup and finding that playing loud, especially in the high range, is a struggle, you may find that a deep-cup version of the same model will correct the problem.

Just remember, you can play on the same equipment as someone else and not have the same result. You may have the same ability, but your equipment needs may be different. Above all, never play on a mouthpiece which makes your lips sore or swell. A new mouthpiece should not take much time to get use to if it really fits you.

So, if someone suggests a particular mouthpiece is the best mouthpiece, that mouthpiece is probably the best mouthpiece for that player but might not serve your technical or musical needs. You just have to try a variety of mouthpieces from thick to thin rims, deep to shallow cups, small to large bores. Keep in mind, if you find a particular rim you like, but the cup and bores don't suit you, you can always have a custom mouthpiece made combining all the positive elements of the various mouthpieces you liked.

Cindy Lewis
I recently purchased a Giardinelli mothpiece size, C1. It is pretty big. I've never seen a French horn mouthpiece this big. I t takes a ton of air to play with this mouthpiece. Is it a good decison to play on it or will it have no benefit.
Brad Byrum
I would assume it is good to at least practice on. If it takes so much that you can't really play much on it, maybe you should go for a little smaller mouthpiece. I played on my teacher's mouthpiece(a Stork M1) and my sound was a great improvement from my last mouthpiece. However, in order to get a sound out of the thing, I was breathing practically every bar(this was back in my freshman year in college). He put me on a M8, which was hard enough at first, but I am assuming I will be moving to a M4 or something pretty soon (and get back to the"I can barely get enough air!" stage again...). The more air it takes, generally you will have a better sound, but you will sacrifice some ease on moving around on the instrument if you move too fast. If it is substantially larger than your last one, you might want to go with something smaller.
Linnea
I was told that the mouthpiece, the lower the number you go, the more air it takes, but the better sound you will have.
I guess someone has to say it, so I guess it might as well be me. If you play a c-1 or other large mouthpiece, it is likely that you will have trouble playing high with ease, you will be flat above the staff, and you will have a sound that, at a distance, will be covered, stuffy and dull sounding. You will sound very mellow to yourself, which is a sure sign that your far-away sound will be less than satisfactory. Just my opinion...your mileage my vary.
Bob
I will look that up... although it is extreamly difficult for me to get mouthpieces other than Benge coming from my area. That is all these stores sell. I am very used to the "I can barely get enough air!" part though. I switched from the trumpet and that was very scary. It was embarrasing having the conductor standing over me yelling... but I am always up for the challegne. I have already learned the differance of the amount of air on an instrument like the french horn. May I ask... how much does a Stork usually run??
Leah Morgan Durrett
Does anyone know the URL to Stork Mouthpieces????
Leah Morgan Durrett
Ready for this?

http://plainfield.bypass.com/~stork/index.html

Rick
I have a C4 and a C8. I played the 4 for about 5 years and got the C8. I used the C8 for 4 years or so and then ended up not playing for 6 years or so. After starting playing again I used the C8 and have now gone back (full circle?) to the C4. The bigger C4 does take a lot more air but the sound is more what I am looking for.

And since someone brought it up...has anyone out there had experience with both Giradinelli and Stork mouthpieces? In particular what I'm interested in are the differences you noticed in rim width (good and or bad in terms of how it affected your playing). Also, what about differences between the "C," Meyers and Orval models? Thanks.

Jack Martin
Dear Jack:

Osmun carries Stork as well as other fine m-p's. Gold plating is about $25 extra. They could advise. Just type "osmun" in Netscape on the "Location" or "Go to" or "Netsite" line. They are especially knowledgeable about converting from trumpet and other bastardly devices.

Ben
It was embarrasing having the conductor standing over me yelling...

May I ask... how much does a Stork usually run??

Hiya,

The best defense when a conductor is standing up yelling at you is to look at them like 'you are a total idiot.' You'll be communicating the truth more often than they will.

scottito
PS; The answer to your question - it depends on what is chasing it...
I recently purchased a Giardinelli C1 as well as a C15 (just to test it out). I had problems in my low range and the C1 did help. At first, I couldn't achieve the high end as well and used the C15 but after a while, I was doing as well on the C1. I now just use the C15 when I am tired.

Maybe not the best practice, but it works for me!

Hallie
When I grew up in Cleveland, my first horn teacher told me to buy a C-1. When I started to study with Richard Solis, he recommended that I switch to a C-12 (I resisted). During college, I eventually played an MY15. In my first second horn job, the principal horn requested that I go back to a C-1 which I played until the middle of my first season as principal horn with the Israel Sinfonietta. i found that I was "gripping" far too much in the upper register. I switched to a B-8 which enabled me to get the benefit of a deep cup, but the ease of a slightly smaller bore. The moral of the story is that there is no simple answer and that one needs to find the equipment which works for oneself!
John Schreckengost
Dear Friends:

In all the recent discussion of Giardinelli mouthpiece cup depths & bore sizes, I didn't hear anything about rim shape.

Doesn't anybody besides me find the Giardinelli rim uncomfortable & tiring? It's not that the Giardinelli rim is too narrow, just that it has a reverse-peak contour that really digs in. (Maybe this relates to the "pressure" discussion from a few weeks back.)

Aren't the mass-produced mouthpieces like Holton Farkas, Holton Tuckwell, & Conn Connstellation lots more comfortable where the metal meets the lipflesh?

Alan Cole
Hi-

I find the "bite" - the inner edge of the mouthpiece - on Giardinelli mouthpieces to sharp, and it bruises my oh-so-tender lips. The nice thing about Stork is that they offer a rounded bite version.

I just ordered a Stork from the Osmun site (http://www.osmun.com) and the rounded-bite Stork is annotated as "W"

I am biased - being the Osmun site designer - but Bob Osmun's price is hard to beat. $44 US for a one piece silver plated Stork that regulary goes for $60.

Bruce
The more air it takes, generally you will have a better sound,
What sort of studies have been reported that would document this statement as true? It does not match my experience at all. (57 years playing the horn)
Mansur's Answer
Well, I don't know what kind of studies have been done, but this is actually not from me, but from a VERY well-known teacher. You know that principal horn in the NY Phil? He taught him too. And you are taking this out of context-I was told that the mouthpiece, the lower the number you go, the more air it takes, but the better sound you will have.
Linnea M Proverbs
Yes, I knew Mr. Chambers, and I think he would agree with me. Jimmy would advocate a larger bore size -- IF the player's lips, style of playing, horn, et al would work with a larger bore size. If not, then he would work toward a smaller size to find the ideal mouthpiece for THAT player. He never believed that ONE SIZE FITS ALL. I know some of his students that play on 8 bores and smaller. The large bore mpces can make some person's sound worse to the point of tubby, flabby, and far out of tune. That is not better, just because it takes more air. The real solution is HOW the air is handled and what sort of buzz produces what sort of tone.

I suspect part of this thread is a manifestation of the fixation that American Horn players are being accused of in Europe -- of being maniacal about volume and the "Big Tone" -- whatever that is. Some one is being misled badly to think that an Alto Horn can be made to have the same sound as a Horn, which is double the length of tubing found in the F Alto Horn.

In short, I do not believe Loud and Beauty are synonyms; nor are Big and Better. Sometimes, less IS more!

Mansur's Answers
It was not referring to Chambers, and I am not going any further about telling you who it is. I truly believe that the lower the number, you not necessarily will get a better sound, but eventually you will. These are my own words. I don't exactly have huge lips and I can get a better sound on the these mouthpieces. I don't think you should jump from a small mouthpiece right into a big one, but I do think that they are capable of producing a better sound(not bigger, I said better). And once again, these are my words now, no one else's.
Linnea
I am currently playing on a Stork M8 and moved to it from a terrible mouthpiece. I haven't played on a whole lot of mouthpieces, but I do feel that the lower the number, the best results, at least for me so far. If I am wrong, I apologize, but that has been my experience so far.
Linnea
If I am wrong, I apologize, but that has been my experience so far.

How can you be "wrong" about your own experience?

-AC.
Well, I don't know what kind of studies have been done, but this is actually not from me, but from a VERY well-known teacher. You know that principal horn in the NY Phil? He taught him too. And you are taking this out of context-I was told that the mouthpiece, the lower the number you go, the more air it takes, but the better sound you will have.
I have a problem with the statement, "the lower the number you go, the more air it takes, but the better sound you will have." Phil Myers said this or your teacher?

I would bet my Master's degree that Mr. Myers' intent is misstated: The inference that a bigger mouthpiece equals a "better sound". I cannot believe he would say that (as gospel) to a student. Just read his Stork article.

Bob Marlatt
It was not Phil Myers words. I would rather not drag this out. It was my teacher's words which could have just been pertaining to me.
Linnea M Proverbs
I hope you copy our responses and show them to your teacher.
Bob Marlatt

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